Anchovy Sandwiches

A three-ingredient spread from the era of the bridge-table sandwich. The only real decision is how much anchovy you want, because the proportion given here is aggressive by current taste.

• Cut the anchovy backSix tablespoons of anchovy paste to three ounces of cream cheese is roughly equal parts paste and cheese by volume, which is very salty by current taste. Start with 2 tablespoons, taste, and build from there.
• Cream cheese quantityThree ounces is a bit over a third of a standard 8-ounce block. Have it fully at room temperature or the paste will not blend in smoothly.
• Cream means heavy creamCream -- The recipe does not specify which cream; pouring cream works. It is there only to loosen the mixture, so add it a teaspoon at a time until the spread is just soft enough to spread.
• Anchovy paste substituteIf you have no paste, mash 4-5 oil-packed anchovy fillets to a smooth pulp in place of the reduced 2 tablespoons. Do not add salt at any stage.
• The bread"Very thinly sliced" is the instruction that makes or breaks these. Use a firm close-crumbed white or pumpernickel, sliced thin enough to be slightly flexible, and butter it lightly first so the moisture in the filling does not soak through.
• Cutting into shapesChill the assembled sandwiches under a damp towel for 20-30 minutes, then trim the crusts and cut. Cold filling cuts cleanly; soft filling drags and smears at the edges.
• YieldEnough spread for about 8 to 10 slices of bread, giving roughly 16 to 20 small cut sandwiches. Best made the same day.