Hashed Potatoes in Cream

A simple creamed potato side dish that depends entirely on gentle heat and cold, firm boiled potatoes.

• SaltspoonA saltspoon is the smallest spoon in an old measuring set, roughly 1/4 teaspoon. So this wants about 1/4 teaspoon pepper and 1/8 teaspoon grated nutmeg.
• "Milk and cream"The original asks for one cup total, made up of both, without giving the split. Half milk and half heavy cream gives the texture the dish is aiming for; all milk will stay thin even after the full cooking time.
• Start with cold potatoesBoil the potatoes the day before, or at least let them cool completely. Warm potatoes crumble under the knife and the dish turns to mash rather than distinct pieces in sauce.
• "Finely hash"The recipe gives no size, but hash in this period generally means chopped small rather than shredded or riced; a small dice is the safe reading. Waxy or all-purpose potatoes hold their edges; a floury baking potato will disintegrate.
• Keep it below a simmerThe hinge of the recipe. Cream held at a boil with starchy potatoes will break or scorch on the pan bottom. Aim for the barest tremble, and stir with a wooden spoon as directed so you do not shear the cubes apart.
• The 12 minutesThat is a reduction time, not a cooking time -- the potatoes are already done. Judge by the sauce: it should coat the pieces and just hold a trail behind the spoon.
• ButterOne teaspoon in a full cup of dairy is a seasoning, not a fat base. The recipe adds it at the start with the salt, pepper and nutmeg; stirring it in off the heat at the end instead will give more gloss.
• YieldFour medium potatoes serve three to four as a side. It does not hold well; the potatoes keep drinking the sauce, so serve it straight from the pan.