Modernistic Recipe-Menu Book

Jessie Marie DeBoth's 1929 cooking school, recipe by recipe - planked dinners, bridge parties, a Chinese supper, and a hundred kinds of Christmas cookie.

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Melon Cocktail

1 cup watermelon balls 1 cup honeydew balls 1/2 cup lemon juice 3 tablespoons sugar 1 cup ginger ale From the heart of a ripe watermelon and from a honeydew, cut small balls with a sharp potato scoop. Pour lemon juice and sugar over and chill well, turning balls occasionally. Arrange balls in glasses, add ginger ale to liquid and pour over all. Serves 6.

For the Modern Kitchen

A first-course fruit cup of the kind that opened American dinner menus for much of the twentieth century. It comes together in minutes, but the balance of acid and sugar deserves a taste before serving.

A Little History

Through the 1920s and 30s a "cocktail" on an American dinner menu was as often fruit or shellfish as it was liquor, a usage already established before Prohibition, though the dry years did nothing to discourage it. Melon cups belonged to the summer end of that repertoire, helped along by rail shipment of western melons and by the small hemispherical scoop that turned ordinary fruit into something composed. Ginger ale, widely available in bottles by then, was a common finishing splash for such cups, supplying carbonation and a touch of spice without a bar. The insistence on the heart of the watermelon is a matter of both color and texture, the flesh nearest the center being sweetest and largely free of seeds.

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