Pan-Fried Chicken

A terse working recipe from a menu book, written for cooks who already knew the method. The only real decision is whether the bird needs parboiling first.

• Skip the parboiling"Spring chicken" meant a young bird, generally only a couple of pounds and a few months old, though market definitions varied. Supermarket fryers and broilers today are all young, tender birds, so the parboiling step is unnecessary and will only make the meat stringy and harder to brown. Reserve it for an old stewing hen.
• Cut and dry"Disjoint" means break the bird into eight or ten pieces at the joints: two drumsticks, two thighs, two wings, and the breast split in two or four. Dry the surface thoroughly with paper towels, since wet skin steams instead of crisping and drags the flour off.
• DredgingAbout a cup of flour for a 3 1/2 to 4 lb bird. Season the flour itself as well as the meat, and let the coated pieces rest ten minutes so the flour hydrates and clings.
• The fatBacon fat or beef drippings were what a household kitchen of the period had on hand and they carry real flavor, but their smoke points are lower than refined oil. Keep the fat around 325-350F; a piece of chicken dropped in should bubble steadily, not violently.
• Depth and timingHalf an inch of fat in a heavy skillet is enough. Figure 12-15 minutes a side over medium heat, dark meat started first, with the pan uncovered for the last stretch to keep the crust crisp.
• DonenessCook to 165F at the thickest part of the breast and 175F in the thigh. Skin color is not a reliable guide with bacon fat, which browns fast.
• The milk gravyPour off all but about three tablespoons of fat, leaving the browned bits. Stir in three tablespoons of the seasoned dredging flour, cook it a minute or two, then whisk in 1 1/2 to 2 cups of milk and simmer until it coats a spoon. Salt and a good deal of black pepper.
• YieldOne 4 lb chicken serves four.