Spanish Ring

A 1930s meatloaf baked in a ring mold, held together by applesauce and a great deal of cracker crumb. It works, but the proportions need reading before you start.

• The crumb ratio is the thing to watchFour cups of cracker crumbs to two pounds of meat is a very high extender by current taste, and gives a firm, sliceable, distinctly bready loaf. If you want something closer to a modern meatloaf, two cups is enough; the mixture will be softer and needs the mold to hold its shape.
• Cracker crumbsMeans plain soda crackers or saltines crushed fine, not seasoned breadcrumbs. Saltines add salt, so taste before committing to the full two teaspoons.
• Oven375F as written is correct and needs no adjustment. Fifty minutes suits a ring, which cooks faster than a solid loaf because of the open center.
• Cook to temperature, not to the clockGround pork and beef mixed together should reach 160F on an instant-read thermometer at the thickest part of the ring. A shallow mold may get there in 40 minutes; a deep one will need longer.
• The moldThis makes a large quantity of mixture, so check the capacity of your ring mold or tube pan before filling. Grease it well and pack the mixture down firmly to avoid air pockets, which cause the ring to break when turned out.
• Unmolding and fatRest 10 minutes, then pour or blot off the rendered fat before inverting onto a platter, or the fat will run across the plate. Loosen the edges with a thin knife first.
• ApplesauceUnsweetened is specified for a reason; sweetened sauce pushes the loaf toward dessert. Modern jarred unsweetened applesauce is a direct substitute.
• PimientoJarred pimientos are still sold, in small jars of a few ounces; check the drained volume to make up the third of a cup. Drained roasted red pepper, chopped fine, is an acceptable stand-in.
• Filling the ringThe recipe does not say what to do with the center, though rings of this kind were often served with something in the middle: buttered peas, creamed corn, mashed potato or rice.