Mrs. W. H. Wilson's New Cook Book

Mrs. Wilson's plain-spoken new cook book — farina to fruit cake in level measures and few words.

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Beef Hash with Spaghetti (Lb spaghetti lb cheese cup)

1 lb. spaghetti. 1/4 lb. cheese. 1/2 cup milk. 1 tablespoon butter. Make beef hash, when spaghetti has cooked wash and drain, put in layers in baking pan with cheese and butter and a thick layer of hash between. Pour milk over this and bake until brown.

For the Modern Kitchen

A leftover-beef casserole written in the compressed style Mrs. Wilson used throughout the book, assuming the reader already knows how to make hash and how hot to run an oven. The gaps are worth filling before you start.

A Little History

Mrs. Mary A. Wilson wrote for wartime and immediately post-war American households, and this recipe carries the marks of it: a small quantity of cheese and butter stretched across a pound of cheap pasta, with yesterday's roast reappearing as hash in the middle. Spaghetti entered mainstream American cookbooks in this period less as an Italian dish than as an economical starch to be treated like macaroni, baked with milk and cheese and whatever meat was on hand. The layered milk-and-cheese bake is the same logic as macaroni and cheese, and the presence of hash between the layers is a thrift instruction as much as a flavour one, since domestic-science writers of the 1910s and 1920s were under real pressure to show cooks how to use up every scrap of a joint of beef.

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