On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Black Raspberry Shrub

Pour one quart of the best cider vinegar over four quarts of black raspberries. Cover and let stand for thirty-six hours. Drain through a jelly bag, getting all the juice possible. Two every pint of juice add one pound of sugar. Boil for five minutes, pour into sterilized jars, and seal. Two tablespoonfuls of juice to a glass of cold water makes a delicious drink.

For the Modern Kitchen

A drinking vinegar of the plainest kind: fruit steeped in vinegar, strained, sweetened and boiled down to a syrup. The only real variables are the strength of your vinegar and how long the fruit sits.

A Little History

A shrub is fruit, sugar and vinegar — the name comes through English from the Arabic sharāb, "a drink," the same root that gives us sherbet and syrup. Vinegar-and-fruit cordials were a practical way of holding a soft-fruit harvest through the year before home refrigeration, and black raspberries, which ripen fast and keep badly, were an obvious candidate. That this one appears in On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon places it precisely: the book belongs to the run of American temperance and early Prohibition drink collections that set out to prove a household could entertain without spirits. The genre leaned hard on shrubs, switchels and fruit syrups because they gave a cold drink something the era prized — a bite on the tongue, and the look of something more serious than lemonade in the glass.

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