On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Boiled Milk

Boil one ounce of shredded suet, a small piece of cinnamon, a grating of nutmeg, and one half pint of milk for five minutes. Remove the cinnamon, and when cool skim. Serve either hot or cold with crackers. This is beneficial for intestinal or consumptive troubles.

For the Modern Kitchen

A sickroom drink of the fat-feeding school: beef suet melted into milk and spiced. It makes one small serving, and the technique matters more than the quantities.

A Little History

Nineteenth-century invalid cookery rested on the belief that wasting illness called for fat and concentrated nourishment, which is why suet, cream, beef tea and raw egg fill these chapters; "consumptive troubles" meant pulmonary tuberculosis, for which a rich diet and fresh air were the standard prescription before antibiotics. The other half of the tradition was alcohol: wine whey, milk punch, brandy and egg, dispensed as medicine rather than drink. "On the water wagon" was temperance slang of the period for having sworn off liquor, and a temperance cookery book had to supply a full sickroom repertoire without a drop of spirits in it; boiled milk with suet and spice is the kind of substitute that resulted.

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