On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Bran Lemonade

Pour two cups of cold water over one fourth cup of bran and let stand over night. In the morning strain and add the juice of one lemon. Serve cold.

For the Modern Kitchen

A cold-infused bran water sharpened with lemon, from the era when drinks like this were served to invalids as much as to the thirsty. Two things decide whether it is pleasant: the bran you buy and how well you strain it.

A Little History

This comes from a Prohibition-adjacent genre: collections of soft drinks assembled to prove that a household could be sociable without alcohol, and On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon ‑ the title itself a play on "being on the water wagon" ‑ belongs squarely to it. Bran water was familiar to American cooks from a different direction, as a sickroom drink, sitting alongside barley water, toast water and rice water in the invalid-cookery chapters of nineteenth-century domestic manuals; the technique is the same cold or tepid steeping of a grain to draw out a faint sweetness and a little mineral flavor. Adding lemon juice, and filing the result under "Lemon and Lime" rather than under invalid drinks, is the small move that turns a nursing remedy into a beverage. Bran was also cheap and widely available, a by-product of roller milling, which may help explain why thrift-minded recipes of the period find uses for it.

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