On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Ginger Nectar

To one pint of molasses add two heaping teaspoonfuls of ginger. Stir until well blended, and add a gallon of water and enough cider vinegar to make it rather acid. Chill, and serve.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is switchel — haymakers' punch — under a genteel name. The whole recipe hangs on the vinegar, which is given by taste rather than by measure, so add it slowly and stop when the sweetness turns bright rather than sour.

A Little History

Switchel is one of the oldest American field drinks — molasses, water, ginger and vinegar, in whatever proportions the household kept — and it is generally traced to the eighteenth-century Northeast, where it was carried out to hay-makers in a stone jug because it quenched thirst better than plain water and cost almost nothing. The ginger was believed to keep cold water from cramping a hot worker, a piece of folk physiology that long outlasted any evidence for it. What makes this version worth noticing is the name: an old farm ration rechristened "Ginger Nectar." The vinegar was doing the work that a fermented cider or a shrub would otherwise have done, supplying the sharpness that keeps a sweet drink from cloying — the same logic behind the shrubs and vinegar cordials that fill books of this kind.

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