On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Iced Orange Juice

Make a syrup of a cupful of sugar and three quarters of a cup of water. Boil for about ten minutes. When cold mix with a half pint of orange juice and the juice of one lemon. Pour in tumblers half filled with cracked ice, and add ice water or Appollinaris.

Orangeade No. 1 Put two tablespoonfuls of cracked ice in a glass with two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar, and pour the juice of one orange over it. Fill up glass with any charged water.

Orangeade No. 2 Squeeze the juice of four oranges over four tablespoonfuls of sugar. Pour on a very little water and let stand for fifteen or twenty minutes. Add the juice of half a lemon. Strain, and serve with cracked ice and enough cold water to fill glasses.

For the Modern Kitchen

Three variations on the same idea, moving from a cooked sugar syrup to a quick cold maceration. All are straightforward; the details worth knowing are the units and the branded water.

A Little History

On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon belongs to a distinct genre: the temperance drink book, published around the time American Prohibition was moving from a moral campaign toward federal law. Its business was to prove that a hostess could set a decent table without wine or spirits, and the strategy is visible here — cracked ice, syrups, citrus and charged water are exactly the bartender's materials and technique, minus the liquor. Apollinaris water, drawn from a spring in the German Ahr valley, was a fashionable mineral water of the period and appears in both cocktail manuals and temperance books of the 1900s and 1910s; calling for it by name signalled that a soft drink could be as considered as anything served in a hotel bar. The pattern of macerating juice on sugar and letting it stand, as in Orangeade No. 2, is older than the book and turns up in English and American receipt collections through the nineteenth century as one way to draw flavour from citrus without heat.

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