On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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Orange and Egg

Add the beaten white of an egg to the juice of an orange. This makes a delicious drink for an invalid.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a two-ingredient invalid drink from the era before anyone connected shell eggs with Salmonella, and it is the one category of old recipe that cannot be salvaged by better technique.

A Little History

Egg-and-fruit-juice drinks belong to the long tradition of invalid cookery — a common chapter in nineteenth- and early twentieth-century household manuals, based on the belief that a sick body needed concentrated, easily swallowed nourishment rather than solid food. Raw egg was one standard vehicle: egg nog, egg lemonade and the "egg flip" all supplied protein without chewing, and beating the white in aerated it into something a weak patient could take a little at a time. The setting here matters too. On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon collects soft drinks for the era when American temperance sentiment was hardening into national Prohibition, so the familiar egg flip and milk punch had to appear in versions with the spirits stripped out. Salmonella Enteritidis was not identified as a routine hazard of intact shell eggs until the 1980s, which is why a recipe like this one could be published for the sickroom in perfectly good faith.

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