On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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The Palisades

Put into a shaker the whites of two eggs, a tablespoonful of pineapple syrup, and a tablespoonful of vanilla ice cream. Add shaved ice, and shake thoroughly. Strain into a glass and fill up with cold milk. A grating of nutmeg may be added, or pineapple cubes.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A soda-fountain drink of the egg-and-milk school: shaken cold, thickened with white and a spoonful of ice cream, served straight up in a tall glass. It comes together in two minutes once the syrup is on hand.

A Little History

This comes from the American soda-fountain literature of roughly the 1890s to the 1920s, when the drugstore counter was the respectable alternative to the saloon and "on the water wagon" was everyday slang for going dry. Egg drinks were a fountain staple long before that — eggnog served cold and unspiked, the egg phosphate — because a shaken white gave a milk drink body and a head of foam without cream or alcohol. Naming individual mixtures after landmarks was standard fountain practice; the Palisades are the traprock cliffs facing New York City across the Hudson, then a popular excursion destination, and the name is decorative rather than descriptive. Recipes like this one are a useful reminder that the milkshake did not arrive fully formed: it grew out of exactly this kind of shaken egg-milk-syrup drink, with ice cream creeping in a spoonful at a time.

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