On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon

Five hundred delicious drinks and no bar bill — Prohibition-eve refreshment from 1919, tea to temperance punch.

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The Savannah

Mix one tablespoonful each of pineapple, orange, and vanilla syrups. Add one egg and a spoonful of ice cream. Shake well, pour into a glass one fourth full of cracked ice, and add carbonated water.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

This is a soda fountain formula: a shaken egg drink built in the glass with carbonated water from a tap. The reason it cannot be reproduced as written is the whole egg, which is never cooked at any stage.

A Little History

On Uncle Sam's Water Wagon belongs to the temperance publishing of the era around Prohibition, when soda fountains were promoted as the respectable alternative to the saloon and drugstore counters often carried a repertoire of drinks with names borrowed from cocktails, cities, and ships. Titles like "The Savannah" plausibly belong to that borrowing — the glamour of a mixed-drink list without the alcohol — though the connection is inference rather than documented. The egg is the period detail that dates it most sharply: egg phosphates and egg lemonades were standard fountain fare, sold partly as refreshment and partly as nourishment, since the drugstore fountain grew out of the pharmacy and still traded on the idea that a drink could be tonic. Whole raw egg in a shaken beverage was unremarkable in American drink writing well into the twentieth century, and it disappeared from mainstream recipes only as understanding of egg-borne Salmonella and modern food-safety guidance took hold.

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