Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Broiled Puffballs

Slice 1/2 inch thick, sprinkle lightly with flour, salt and pepper, and broil just as you would a slice of steak. Eat it piping hot with plenty of melted butter.

Beefsteak tomatoes are fine to broil in the same way and eat with real steak and/or puffball steaks.

For the Modern Kitchen Do not make this as written.

A camp-cooking note rather than a formal recipe: it assumes you have a giant puffball in hand and a fire with a grill over it. Two things decide whether it works — what you cut into, and how much fat you give it.

A Little History

Puffballs have long been a forager's steak substitute because of their sheer bulk: a mature giant puffball can weigh several pounds and cuts into clean white slabs with no stem, gills or trimming waste. The comparison to steak here is doing double duty — it tells the cook the method (dry heat, brief, plenty of butter) and it flatters the ingredient, which is bland on its own and depends largely on fat, salt and browning for flavor.

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