Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Haystack Hash

LEFTOVER LEAN MEAT 2-3 SLICES DRY BREAD 3-4 SLICES ONION 3-4 PARSLEY SPRIGS 1/2 CUP MASHED POTATOES SALT AND PEPPER CATSUP I TABLESPOON MELTED BUTTER MILK I EGG YOLK Chop leftovers of roast, steak, chops or game with bread, onion, and parsley. Mix with mashed potatoes, seasonings, butter, and just enough milk to hold everything together. Pile in a haystack on a buttered pie plate, break egg yolk over, and bake 30 minutes in moderate oven, until golden brown all over.

For the Modern Kitchen

An ingredient list without weights, aimed at whatever cold meat is on hand. The proportions are elastic; the binding is the only thing that has to be right.

A Little History

Hash is leftover cookery given a shape, and the name comes from the French hacher, to chop. Nineteenth- and twentieth-century household books are full of variations that differ mainly in the binder — potato, breadcrumb, gravy, egg — and in whether the result is fried flat in a skillet or baked. Piling it into a cone and baking it, as here, has an obvious practical appeal: one plate, one oven, no turning, and the mound browns on every face at once. The heading appears to reflect a convention in American outdoor and camp cookery of dressing plain recipes in supposed frontier or "Indian" idiom, a framing that says a great deal more about the publishers of such books than about any actual cooking tradition.

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