Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Imitation Brook Trout

Fork any cold boiled fish into flakes and wet them down with this here sauce: 3 TABLESPOONS BUTTER 1/2 CUP FLOUR I CUP HOT MILK SALT RED PEPPER LEMON JUICE Mix well, let cool, and then shape into little fat fish about the size and figure of brook trout, dip in cracker crumsywumsyies, then in egg beaten with 2 tablespoons water and again in the you-know-what. Fry in deep fat, drain, and serve piping hot.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a fish croquette shaped for the joke: a very stiff white sauce binds flaked cooked fish, and the mixture is moulded into little trout before frying. The hinge is chilling — warm mixture will slump in the fat and burst the crust.

A Little History

Mock dishes were a staple of American cookery for well over a century — mock turtle, mock apple pie, mock duck — and this belongs to the same family: cheap or leftover material dressed up in the silhouette of something prized. Brook trout was a prized catch, so a croquette moulded into trout shape reads as a joke at the expense of the angler who came back from the stream empty-handed. The technique underneath is standard croquette practice as taught in late nineteenth and early twentieth century cooking schools: a very stiff milk-and-flour panada as binder, a double crumb coat, and deep fat. The dialect voice and comic patter are plain enough in the text itself; the racial language in the surrounding framing was ordinary in print at the time and is preserved here as printed.

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