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Hen Fruit, or X

EVER SINCE THE first man climbed out of the primal ooze and toddled around on his hind legs, eggs have been his easiest and best bet for an outdoor feed-X ranging all the way from the turtle's to the ostrich's. And as soon as the first cavewoman pushed the hair back out of her eyes, she saw that her immediate job was to learn how to coddle both her man and his breakfast cackleberries.

Since there are books devoted to 685 Ways to Dress Eggs and more than 700 styles are accepted by the Parisian chefs as classic, the best we can do is toss a few suggestions to our open-mouthed audience and hope they won't throw them back.

In boiling put the little end of an egg in first and do it slowly, so any air in the egg escapes through the big end and keeps it from busting.

Cook a 3-minute egg by a stop watch or sand glasswhich last can be as handy in camp as a compass. Both orange juice and Tabasco perk up any dish of eggs. In handing out eggs on toast it's easier on the eater if you cut up the toast before plopping the egg down on top of it.

To suck an egg, punch a hole in each end.

Hard-cooked eggs should be boiled a full 1/2 hour, then put into cold water so the shells will come off smoothly. The mashed yolk of hard-cooked eggs serves in place of butter as a tasty spread for bread, even as the buttery flesh of avocado does.

Try opening a fresh egg into a piping hot bowl of soup and letting it coddle there before you break it with your spoon and stir it in.

Any real egg fancier can tell the difference between a brown egg and a white one, blindfolded. Brown eggs are tastier and, according to a Newark doctor, healthier. This doctor recommends a diet called "The 4 browns"-brown eggs, brown (whole wheat) bread, brown beans (Boston baked) and brown sugar.

Duck eggs are swell, their "yelk" is reddish and they make an appetizing change outdoors-except when they taste fishy from the duck having eaten too much fish. Guinea hen eggs take from 1/2 to 1 minute longer to cook than hen's eggs and folks who go for them like them next to the bluish little gelatinous plover egg. Many people like a big, nutritious turkey egg, too.