Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Hot Dog Rolls

2 CUPS SIFTED FLOUR 2 TEASPOONS BAKING POWDER SALT 4 TABLESPOONS SHORTENING 3/4 CUP MILK Pan-broil wieners until well browned. Sift flour once, measure, add baking powder and salt, and sift again. Cut in shortening. Add milk gradually, stirring until soft dough is formed. Turn out on slightly floured board and knead 30 seconds or long enough to shape. Roll 1/8 inch thick and cut in 2-inch squares. Cut wieners in half; place half in center of each square. Fold dough over wiener, pinch edges together, and shape into roll, leaving ends open. Place seam-side down on ungreased baking sheet, bake in hot oven 12-15 minutes. Makes 3 dozen rolls.

For the Modern Kitchen

A biscuit dough wrapped around browned wiener halves — the mid-century picnic ancestor of the pigs-in-blankets everyone still makes. Two details carry the recipe: the wieners are cooked before wrapping, and the oven has to be genuinely hot.

A Little History

Hot Dog Rolls belongs to the era when baking powder had made a quick biscuit dough the default wrapper for almost anything savory: the same two-cups-flour, two-teaspoons-baking-powder formula shows up in period cookbooks as shortcake, dumplings, cobbler topping and pinwheels, adapted by whatever was folded into it. The wiener itself, sold in American cities from the late nineteenth century onward and served in a bun by the early twentieth, was cheap, pre-cooked and widely available, which made it a natural filling for such a dough.

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