Kedgeree

A camp version of the Anglo-Indian breakfast dish, built entirely from cooked components so it comes together in one pan. The whole job is reheating and seasoning, not cooking.

• The quantitiesOne pound flaked cooked fish, 3 cups hot cooked rice, 4 hard-cooked eggs, 1/2 cup olive oil, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1 tablespoon curry powder. As printed, the salt and curry figures have lost their spacing and read oddly.
• Bloom the curry powderCommercial curry powder tastes raw and dusty if it only warms through. Stir it into the hot oil for 30 to 60 seconds before the rice goes in, or add it with the rice and keep everything moving over heat for a couple of minutes.
• Ease up on the oilHalf a cup of oil for three cups of rice is heavy by current taste. Start with three or four tablespoons and add more only if the pan looks dry.
• The fishAny firm cooked white fish or smoked fish works; smoked haddock is the traditional choice and gives the dish most of its character. Flake in generous pieces and fold it in at the end so it does not break down to paste.
• Chopping the riceThe instruction to chop the rice fine is unusual and unnecessary with modern long-grain rice. Cook it a day ahead if you can, cool it, and break up the clumps with a fork instead.
• EggsQuarter or roughly chop the eggs rather than mincing them, and fold them in near the end. Stirred through from the start they disappear into the rice.
• Heat it properlySince everything is precooked, the point is to bring the whole pan to steaming hot throughout, not to brown it. Leftover fish and rice reheated should reach a good simmering heat right through before serving.
• YieldNo yield is printed; the quantities would reasonably serve four to six as a main course. Serve straight from the pan or a warmed dish; it cools quickly outdoors.