Norwegian Meat Balls

A spiced pork-and-beef mixture in the Scandinavian manner, rested before shaping so the seasoning permeates. The recipe assumes a heavy skillet over a fire or grill and gives no quantities beyond the pound.

• YieldTwo pounds of meat makes roughly 24 balls of golf-ball size, or 8 to 10 flattened cakes. Enough for six as a main course.
• The three-hour restThis is not optional flavour-mongering: the salt and ground spice need time to work into the meat, and the mixture firms up so the balls hold together in the pan. Keep it refrigerated, covered, not at room temperature.
• Spicing is assertiveA teaspoon of ginger plus half-teaspoons of cinnamon and cloves for two pounds is a lot by modern American habit, and closer to Norwegian tradition than to Italian-style meatballs. Taste a small fried nugget before shaping the rest, and add salt from there — figure about 2 teaspoons kosher salt for the batch.
• Milk and eggThree tablespoons of milk with two eggs is a very light binder and there is no breadcrumb, so the texture comes out dense and meaty. Mix only until combined; overworking ground pork makes it springy.
• Frying in lardLard is still sold and gives the cleanest result, but any fat with a high smoke point works. Medium heat, not high — the sugar-free spice mix scorches less readily than a bread-filled meatball but the onion will.
• Cover while fryingThe lid traps steam and cooks the centres through without the outside drying. Brown first uncovered for colour, then cover to finish.
• DonenessBecause pork is included, cook to an internal 160F throughout. On a good browning heat that is about 10 to 12 minutes for balls, less for flat cakes.
• Round steakGround round is lean, around 85 to 90 percent. The pork is specified lean and fat together for exactly that reason — do not substitute lean pork loin or the result will be dry.