Outdoor Cooking

Cooking out of doors in 1940 — bean holes, spits, clambakes and burgoo, from three food writers who thought a campfire was the best joke going.

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Rocky Mountain Sheep

First catch your wild mutton (you can't do it by putting salt on his tail), then slice him into 11/2-inch steaks. Slash into strips 1-inch wide and marinate in orange juice 6 hours, or overnight. Then break out the trusty, rusty skillet, melt butter in it until it smokes, drain and dry the luscious chunks of red meat, and fry 4-5 minutes. Stir in a couple of cups of meat stock (from cubes), thicken with a handful of flour, season well, and go to it.

Or you can roast it the same as lamb, and eat it with mint jelly.

For the Modern Kitchen

A camp recipe written for meat almost nobody buys. The method is sound for any lean, dark game leg or loin, but the timings assume thin strips and a very hot pan.

A Little History

Rocky Mountain bighorn was a prized game animal of the mountain West, and 'wild mutton' was one of the terms used for it. Market hunting and disease from domestic sheep flocks reduced the herds sharply by about 1900, and the animal spent much of the twentieth century as the object of restoration programs rather than dinner. The technique itself is older than the game laws: acid marinade, hard sear in fat, then a quick pan gravy thickened with flour and stretched with whatever stock the camp had, here frankly acknowledged as cubes. The closing line about mint jelly is a nod to the domestic sheep that the wild one is forever being compared to.

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