Salads, Sandwiches and Chafing-Dish Dainties

Salads, sandwiches and chafing-dish dainties from the Boston Cooking-School's magazine editor, with fifty photographed dishes.

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How to Pickle Nasturtium Seeds

As the seeds are gathered wash and dry them: then put them into vinegar to which salt (half a teaspoonful to a pint) has been added. When a sufficient quantity has been collected, scald fresh vinegar, add salt as before, and the seeds from which the first vinegar has been drained. Pour scalding hot into bottles, having the seeds completely covered with vinegar.

For the Modern Kitchen

A running pickle: you add pods to a jar of vinegar as they ripen over the summer, then repack the lot in fresh hot vinegar at the end. Two things determine whether it works — the stage at which the seeds are picked, and the strength of the vinegar.

A Little History

Nasturtium seed pods have been pickled as a substitute for capers for centuries in English and American kitchens, and are still often called poor man's capers. The plant, Tropaeolum majus, came to Europe from South America — generally held to have arrived in the seventeenth century — and was valued as a salad plant long before it became a bedding flower: John Evelyn's Acetaria of 1699 recommends the flowers and buds in a salad, and pickled pods appear in English receipt books through the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries. The common name is usually traced to the Latin for nose-twister, a derivation widely repeated though not settled, and taken as a reference to the sharp mustard-oil bite shared by the whole plant — the same family of compounds that makes watercress and horseradish pungent. That a book on salads and chafing-dish suppers includes it says something about the period's kitchen gardens: capers were an imported luxury, while the nasturtium bed by the back door produced pods for free all summer, and a jar of vinegar on the shelf collected them as they came.

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