The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Brown Squash Pie

2 pounds of dry mashed squash--a quart. 8 ounces of molasses. 2 ounces of butter. 8 eggs. Ginger and allspice. 1 quart of milk. Mix the butter with the squash while still warm, then the molasses and rest of the ingredients. With the right kind of molasses or part black molasses and part sugar, and spice skillfully proportioned this variety proves to be a favorite.

Allowing that is not strictly in the line of hotel fellows' duty to pass opinions upon manners and ways people have but considering the many aspersions that are cast upon pie and its friends, may we not ask one question--it is not more American like to like pie and say you like pie, and make it big and make it good, than to beat about the bush and try to hide an inordinate admiration of pie under such names as darioles, bouchees, mirlitons, flans, vol-au-vents, tourtes, tartelettes and a lot more as the French do, and turnovers, puffs and tarts like the English? You will find if you look that Mr. Clive Newcome, in The Newcomes, when a boy at college was remarkably fond of raspberry tarts and it took all his pocket money and much that he managed to get from a friend or two besides to purchase them, and there is nothing sardonic in Mr. Thackeray's statement of that not uncommon trait of his. But those raspberry tarts are not to be conf unded for a minute with the indescribable English household pie-the tarts were and are neither more nor less--except in size--than our American open pies. Could Mr. Clive be blamed for loving them? Why even American collegians are not above such a weakness as that.

Tarte, tourte, tart is the European for the American pie, made open--that is without a top crust--or at most with only strips across. The tart proper is not larger than the palm of the hand, and is made in patty pans or small pie pans of any form, oval, oblong, square or round. People like pie for supper, and country hotels with the old style of long table set them on it, but Fashion does not allow it. But you can circumvent Fashion (and sne will be secretly pleased thereby) by serving tarts both for luncheon and supper. Now tarts or tiny pies are tedious to make in numbers and advantage must be taken, get the shallow patty-pans fastened together a dozen in a bunch. Roll out the paste to an eighth of an inch thickness in a large sheet, and cut out flats with a biscuit cutter or any oval or other cutter that will match your patty-pans. Press the paste with the thumbs to the shape, cut off the surplus even with the edges and put in a spoonful of any kind of pie fruit or of the mixtures just preceding, or of the various creams, apple or cocoanut cream etc and you can give pie for supper luncheon and tea and Fashion will never be the wiser.

For some of the pie mixtures such as the chocolate cream, puff-paste is not the best. The annexed is a kind specially made for "small bakings."

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