The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Cheese, Sicilienne

COLD DISHES AND SALADS. Chicken Salad Lobster in Shell Sliced Tomatoes Smoked Tongue Boned Turkey en Aspic VEGETABLES. Potatoes boiled, mashed, browned Green Peas Corn Tomatoes SWEETS AND DESSERT. Grape Pie Lemon Meringue Pie Cabinet Pudding Neapolitan Ice Cream Blanc Mange au Marasquin Assorted Cakes Fruits Nuts COFFEE. Salads and Cold Dishes from Foreign Menus.

The following will be found suggestive not only of new or nearly forgotten dishes to make in this department, but of different names or ways of writing the same thing.

Buisson de petits homards. Mayonaise de homards. Aspic de langoustes. Aspic de homards. Homards en coquilles. Homards en belle vue. Mayonaise de langoustes en bordure. Salade de homards en coquille. Lobster salad with plover's eggs. Lobster au gratin. (in one royal menu stands in the salad's place with the rots.) Salade de ques d'ecrivisses (crayfish tails.) Salade d'ecrivisses, a la gelee. Crayfish, plain. Buisson d'ecrivisses Groups of large crayfish. Aspic of plovers eggs and prawns. Buisson of prawns sur socle. Aspic de crevettes (shrimps.) Salade de filets de soles, a la Parisienne. Salade de saumon, a la Russe. Salade Russe au thon (tunny.) Fillets de saumon a la mayonaise. Mayonaise de fillets de soles. Dame of salmon with Montpellier butter. Salad of fillets of fowls a la belle-vue. Mayonaise of chicken. Sliced galantine with jelly. Salade de volaille. Poulets gras, a la gelee, sauce remoulade. Galantine de volaille, a la gelee.

Italian salads in decorated aspic borders. Salade de legumes garnie de saumon fume (with smoked salmon.) Salade a la Russe. German salad. Salsify en mayonaise. Salade de legumes, a l'Italienne. Salade de laitues. Haricots verts en salade. Potato chips (once in salads place.) Choucroute aux huitres. Salade Italienne en belle-vue. Salade de chicoree.

The last named salad is found in the menu of a German duke's grand dinner. "In Holland and Belgium, white chicory is sold at a cheap rate early in the spring, and supplies a grateful salad long before lettuces are to be had" Endive and succory are other names for chicory.

The definite object in view in bringing in the foregoing perhaps somewhat formidable looking mass of French is to discover what the best European bill of fare composers and cooks do when they do their highest endeavors for the greatest occasions that can arise in their particular world, and not at all to lead any callow geese on this side to copy and use the imposing words they do not understand. We must have a standard to judge American hotel work by, and as far as names and words can go to give an idea, these imperial menus and the salad dishes culled from many others mark the topmost notch. There are some American hotels, their menu writers, caterers and cooks, who would not consent to be ranked below the European in anything, even in salads. However, there can be no dispute, for after we have learned what they make there remains the greater question of perfection of work, skill, readiness, dexterity, and good taste, and that will always remain open. Salads made only to look at are out of place in a hotel. Ornamentation that consumes hours of time is impracticable where a new banquet comes on every day. Instead of one great dish of salad we have a hundred or two little dishes. Every person at table if he chooses has a complete dish to himself. Whatever fixing up is to be done must be done quickly or it will not be done at all.

A great check might be put upon the vulgar use of spurious French in bills of fare if guests and employers were to grow inquisitive and quizzical, demanding to know what each word means, of who-ever wrote it. There's a nice new game for winter time.

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