The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Rice and Apple Pudding

The plain rice pudding preceding, made with only 4 pints of milk and 1 pound of good cooking apples, pared, cored and quartered.

Drop the quartered apples in the puddings, bake 3 or 4 hours and keep covered with buttered paper to prevent scorching, and black edges on the apples. An inch length of stick cinnamon to each pudding improves. Cream and sugar, or else hard sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

A variation rather than a standalone recipe: it assumes you have the plain baked rice pudding from the preceding page in front of you, with the milk cut back to 4 pints and apples added. A few things need translating before it will work in a home oven.

A Little History

Baked rice puddings of this kind were among the cheapest sweets a nineteenth-century kitchen could produce: milk, rice and a long stay in the cooling oven after the day's bread came out. That last point explains the three- or four-hour bake, which looks extravagant now but made use of heat the oven was giving up anyway. Adding apples — and cutting the milk from the plain version's larger quantity — is the standard way these books extend a base recipe into a whole family of puddings, and rice with apple and cinnamon is a pairing common across English, German and American household cookery of the period. Hard sauce, the alternative accompaniment, is the same butter-and-sugar paste served with plum pudding at Christmas, and its appearance here marks this as a dish that could be dressed up for company or served plain with cream on a Tuesday.

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