The American Pastry Cook

Jessup Whitehead's American Pastry Cook — the hotel pastry trade's own manual, in hundreds of numbered recipes.

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Tapioca Custard Pudding

3/4 pound of tapioca. 3 pints of milk. 6 ounces of sugar. 3 ounces of butter. 8 yolks and 2 whole eggs, Salt. Grated lemon rind or other flavor. Sift the dust from tapioca. Sometimes it is better to wash it, besides, like rice. Soak it in half the milk about two hours in a warm place. Boil the rest of the milk with the sugar in it--the sugar prevents burning at bottom--cook the soaked tapioca in it about half an hour. Beat the eggs, mix all together and bake only till the puddings are just set in the middle, lest the custard in it curdle and separate instead of being creamy rich. Any hot, clear, transparent sauce or lemon syrup suits, also brandy and wine sauces. This pudding is often served cold with sweetened cream. Also may be cut cold in shapes, egged, breaded, and fried as fritters.

Does it seem like extravagance to call for so many yolks of eggs for puddings? Is is not. What might be so regarded in private house work is really the greatest economy in hotels where each fresh meal is required to be as good as the one that preceded it, and the whites of eggs left over are needed in a hundred ways. The whites do no more good in puddings than so much flour or starch. The yolks give the richness and fine color. Probably at another time we shall have a talk about silver cakes, snow cakes and a dozen others made with white of eggs, white cocoanut pies, white whips and floats, and the meringues must not be forgot.

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