The Belgian Cook Book

Recipes carried out of occupied Belgium by refugees and set down in England in 1915 — waterzooi, hochepot, chicory, the endive and the beer soups — sold to feed the country they came from.

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Apple Fritters

Put half pound of flour in a deep dish and work it with beer, beating it well till there are no lumps left. Make it into a paste that is not very liquid. Peel and core some good apples, cut them into rounds, put them in the paste so that each one is well covered with it. Have a pan of boiling fat and throw in the apple slices for two minutes. They ought to be golden by then, if that fat has been hot enough. Serve them dusted with powdered sugar and the juice of half a lemon squeezed on them.

For the Modern Kitchen

A beer batter with no leavening beyond the beer itself, which means the fat has to be properly hot or the coating turns heavy. Everything else is straightforward.

A Little History

The Belgian Cook Book was compiled in Britain in 1915 from recipes contributed by Belgian refugees who had fled the German invasion, and sold in aid of relief funds; the dishes are plain household cooking recorded far from the kitchens they belonged to. Beer batter of this kind is standard across the Low Countries, where the beer supplied both the liquid and the lift. Fried apple rings — appelbeignets in Flemish, beignets aux pommes in French — are still eaten in Belgium and the Netherlands in winter, and in the Netherlands the New Year is particularly associated with oliebollen, while Belgian fairs sell smoutebollen; the version here, dusted with sugar and sharpened with lemon, is close to what is still sold at winter fairs.

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