The Belgian Cook Book

Recipes carried out of occupied Belgium by refugees and set down in England in 1915 — waterzooi, hochepot, chicory, the endive and the beer soups — sold to feed the country they came from.

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Asparagus Omelette

This is made quite differently. Cook the asparagus-tops in salt and water and drain them Roll them in a little bechamel sauce. Break your eggs into the pan into which you have put a little butter; stir them with a fork in your left hand, adding salt and pepper with your right. This will only take a minute. Add the asparagus-tops in the thick sauce; this will take another minute. Roll or fold up the omelette and slip it on a hot buttered dish.

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-minute omelette whose only real work happens before the pan gets hot. Have the asparagus cooked, drained and bound in sauce before you break an egg.

A Little History

The Belgian Cook Book was compiled during the First World War, its recipes gathered from Belgian refugees living in Britain and sold to raise money for relief work. That accounts for the tone of these instructions - they are transcribed from cooks describing dishes from memory rather than written out as formal receipts, which is why quantities are absent and the writer takes for granted that you already know how to make bechamel. Asparagus is a point of national pride in Belgium: the pale forced spears of the Mechelen region, grown under mounded earth, were a celebrated crop by the nineteenth century, and asperges à la flamande - asparagus with butter, chopped hard egg and parsley - remains the country's signature treatment. An omelette that pairs the tips with egg and a spoonful of sauce belongs to the same instinct, and would have been a thrifty way to use the tender ends after the tougher lower stalks had gone to soup.

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