Pommes Chateau

A classic turned-and-roasted potato, written for a coal range and a cook who could shape a potato in seconds. The technique survives unchanged in professional kitchens.

• "Turning" the potatoesCutting a seven-sided barrel or olive shape about 2 inches long, done with a small paring or turning knife. The point is uniform size so everything browns at the same rate; if you would rather not, cut even 1½-inch chunks and accept less elegant results. Save the trimmings for soup or mash, as a good deal of the potato -- up to about half -- is lost.
• Which potatoA firm, waxy or all-purpose potato holds the shape; a floury baking potato crumbles under the knife and collapses in the parboil.
• "A very hot oven"450-475F. At less than that the surfaces steam rather than crust, and the thirty minutes will not be enough.
• The five-minute parboilThis is the hinge. It sets the outside just enough to take colour without letting the potato go soft; drain thoroughly and let the steam dry off for a minute before they meet the fat, or they will spit and stew.
• DrippingBeef or pork dripping, the ordinary roasting fat of the period. Clarified butter, duck fat or a neutral oil all work; whole butter alone will brown too fast at this heat.
• Fat quantityThe recipe gives none. Enough to coat every surface and film the tin, roughly 3-4 tablespoons for this quantity, turning the potatoes in it before the tin goes in the oven.
• "Moving them about"Shake or turn the tin every ten minutes so each face gets contact with the hot metal. Use a single layer with space between; crowded potatoes steam.
• ParsleyAdd it off the heat, at the moment of serving. Sprinkled on earlier it scorches and turns bitter.