The Belgian Cook Book

Recipes carried out of occupied Belgium by refugees and set down in England in 1915 — waterzooi, hochepot, chicory, the endive and the beer soups — sold to feed the country they came from.

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Stewed Beef (Inferior part of beef may be)

An inferior part of beef may be made to taste excellent if it is braised; that is, simmered with the cover on slowly, in company with onions (already fried) and well washed pieces of carrots and whole turnips. Put on also some small cabbages cut in halves, and if you can give it, a glass of good red wine.

For the Modern Kitchen

A method sketch rather than a measured recipe: a tough cut, aromatics, and a covered pot on low heat. The proportions are left to the cook, so the notes below fill in what the original assumes you already know.

A Little History

The Belgian Cook Book was compiled during the First World War, when Belgium was under occupation and much of Europe was raising money for Belgian relief; the recipes were gathered from Belgian women, many of them refugees, and printed partly as fundraising and partly as testimony to a domestic culture under threat. That context shows in this entry. It is not a recipe so much as an argument that cheap meat need not be poor eating — the whole point is rescuing an "inferior part" with time and aromatics, and the wine appears only as a conditional, "if you can give it." Braising itself is far older than the book: the technique of slow, covered, moist cooking with root vegetables underpins Flemish stoofvlees and the beer-based carbonnade, and the same logic runs through French boeuf à la mode and the English pot roast. What varies from region to region is chiefly the liquid — wine here, brown ale a little further north.

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