The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Baba Cakes with Apricots

1½ cups flour 1 yeast cake dissolved in 1/2 cup lukewarm water 2/3 cup butter 4 eggs 1/2 cup sugar ¼ teaspoon salt Make sponge of one-half cup flour and dissolved yeast cake; cover and let rise. Mix remaining flour with butter, two eggs, sugar, and salt. Beat thoroughly, and add, while beating, remaining eggs, one at a time, then beat until mixture is perfectly smooth. As soon as sponge has doubled its bulk, combine mixtures, beat thoroughly, and half fill buttered individual tins. Let rise, and bake in a moderate oven. Remove from tins, cut a circular piece from top of each, and scoop out a small quantity of the inside. Fill centres thus made with Apricot Marmalade, replace circular pieces, and serve with Wine Sauce (see p. 409).

For the Modern Kitchen

A rich yeast-raised batter in the babà family, baked in small tins and hollowed out to hold marmalade. It is closer to brioche than to cake, and it behaves like brioche: soft, slack, and slow to rise.

A Little History

Baba is generally traced to the yeast-raised cakes of central and eastern Europe, carried into French pastry in the eighteenth century and from there into the Neapolitan baba al rum; the name is usually explained as the Polish and Slavic word for an old woman, applied to the tall fluted shape, though that explanation is traditional rather than settled. What is set down here is a brioche-type dough enriched with butter and four eggs, baked small, hollowed, filled with fruit and sauced with wine rather than soaked in spirits -- the kind of French-derived pastry that turn-of-the-century American cookbooks adapted for a household audience.

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