The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Chocolate Cakes

3 eggs 1/4 cup butter 1/2 cup sugar. Beat eggs until light. 3 squares unsweetened chocolate 1 cup stale bread crumbs 3 tablespoons flour Cream the butter, add sugar, combine mixtures, then add chocolate melted, bread crumbs. and flour. Spread mixture in a shallow buttered pan and bake in a slow oven. Shape with a tiny biscuit-cutter and put together in pairs with White Mountain Cream (see p. 528) between and on top. 2 eggs ½ cup powdered sugar ¾ cup flour 1/3 teaspoon salt ½ teaspoon cinnamon

For the Modern Kitchen

A crumb-based chocolate sheet that is baked thin, cut into rounds and sandwiched with boiled frosting — closer to a small filled cake than a cookie. Several quantities in the text as it stands do not line up, so read the notes before shopping.

A Little History

Fannie Farmer's Boston Cooking-School Cook Book is full of cakes stretched with stale bread crumbs, a habit inherited from nineteenth-century puddings and from a kitchen economy in which no loaf was thrown out. The crumbs do real work here beyond thrift: they hold moisture and keep a low-flour chocolate batter from turning to a brittle wafer. Unsweetened chocolate in squares was a Boston staple by this date — Baker's had been grinding cacao on the Neponset River in Dorchester since the eighteenth century — and Farmer treats it as an ordinary pantry item rather than a luxury. Pairing the cut rounds with a boiled white frosting reflects the turn-of-the-century taste for the strong contrast of dark cake against a stark white icing, the same logic that produced the layer cakes elsewhere in the book.

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