The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Corned Beef Hash

Remove skin and gristle from cooked corned beef, then chop the meat. When meat is very fat, discard most of the fat. To chopped meat add an equal quantity of cold boiled chopped potatoes. Season with salt and pepper, put into a hot buttered frying-pan, moisten with milk or cream, stir until well mixed, spread evenly, then place on a part of the range where it may slowly brown underneath. Turn, and fold on a hot platter. Garnish with sprig of parsley in the middle.

For the Modern Kitchen

Fannie Farmer's hash is built on leftovers and on patience with the pan. The method assumes a coal range with hot and cool zones; a modern burner on low, or a stint in the oven, does the same job.

A Little History

Hash is the frugal end of the corned beef cycle: what remained of a boiled joint went into the pan with leftover potatoes, though the recipe itself names no cut. The word comes from the French hacher, to chop, and the dish belongs to the same household logic as rissoles and croquettes. Corning itself refers to the coarse grains, or corns, of salt used to cure the beef, a preservation method that made brisket a staple of American kitchens long before refrigeration. Farmer's 1896 book was written for cooks who were expected to plan meals across several days, and the presence of a leftovers recipe at all reflects how routine that planning was.

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