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Flour (Cups Brown Stock Juice lemon)
1⅓ cups Brown Stock Juice 1 lemon 2 sprigs parsley Pound veal until one-fourth inch thick and cut in pieces for serving. Sprinkle with salt and pepper, put in bakingpan, pour over wine, and let stand thirty minutes. Drain, dip in flour, arrange in two buttered pans, and pour over remaining ingredients and wine which was drained from meat. Cover, and cook slowly until meat is tender. Remove to serving dish and pour over sauce remaining in pan. Loin of Veal à la Jardinière Wipe four pounds loin of veal, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and dredge with flour. Put one-fourth cup butter in deep stewpan; when melted, add veal and brown entire surface of meat, watching carefully and turning often, that it may not burn. Add one cup hot water, cover closely, and cook slowly two hours, or until meat is tender, adding more water as needed, using in all about three cups. Remove meat, thicken stock remaining in pan with flour diluted with enough cold water to pour easily. Surround the meat with two cups each boiled turnips and carrots, cut in half-inch cubes, and potatoes cut in balls. Serve gravy in a tureen.
The page has been garbled in transcription: the first recipe's ingredient list survives only as a fragment ("1½ cups Brown Stock, juice 1 lemon, 2 sprigs parsley"), with the veal quantity, the wine and the butter missing from the list although the method calls for them. The second recipe, Loin of Veal à la Jardinière, is complete and can be followed as written.
- The incomplete first recipeTreat the opening item as a braised veal cutlet in wine and brown stock. For two pounds of pounded cutlets, about a cup of dry white wine for the marinade and the 1½ cups brown stock, lemon juice and parsley for the braise are in proportion; the original's exact meat and wine amounts are lost and any figure given here is a reconstruction, not the book's.
- Brown stockFannie Farmer's brown stock is beef shin and bone browned before simmering, richer and meatier than canned broth though not reduced or thickened. Unsalted beef stock, reduced a little, stands in; salt at the end since the meat is already seasoned and the pan liquid concentrates.
- "Cook slowly" on the stovetop"Cook slowly" -- Both dishes are covered braises meant for a bare simmer rather than a boil; the loin is done in a deep stewpan on the range, while the cutlets go into covered baking pans. The book gives no oven temperature, so a low oven (around 325F) is a modern substitution rather than the book's instruction; in either case cook the cutlets and the loin only until tender, which for the loin the recipe puts at about two hours.
- Veal loin todayA four-pound bone-in veal loin is a special-order cut and expensive. Shoulder or breast, boned and tied, suits this long slow moist cooking better. A rolled shoulder roast of about four pounds is usually obtainable from a butcher, though not a supermarket staple.
- Pounding the cutletsPut the slices between plastic sheets and use the flat side of a mallet, working outward from the centre so the fibres spread rather than tear, until they are an even quarter inch.
- Thickening the pan gravyFlour slaked in cold water needs a couple of minutes at a simmer after it goes in, or the gravy tastes of raw starch. The three cups of water in the recipe is the total added during cooking; judge the flour against however much liquid is actually left in the pan, and slake it with enough cold water that it pours easily, as the recipe directs.
- À la jardinière garnishThe turnips, carrots and potato balls are boiled separately and arranged around the meat; they are not cooked in the braise. Boil them just to tender and toss with butter, or they collapse while you plate the roast.
- YieldThe loin serves six to eight with the vegetables. The cutlet dish, at two pounds of veal, serves four.
Veal occupies a long stretch of the Boston Cooking-School Cook Book, and it is often suggested that in 1896 it was cheap urban meat, the surplus bull calves of dairy herds around Boston reaching the butcher in cuts that rewarded slow moist cooking rather than roasting — though this is inference rather than documented fact. "À la jardinière" is straightforward French kitchen shorthand — from jardin, garden — for a dish ringed with separately cooked vegetables cut to matching shapes, and its appearance in an American teaching cookbook shows how thoroughly Farmer expected her students to absorb the vocabulary of the professional French kitchen even while cooking on a coal range. The turnip-carrot-potato trio is the plainest possible reading of the garnish; grander tables added peas, beans and turned vegetables in separate mounds rather than a mixed border.