The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Fruit Punch III

1 cup sugar 1 cup hot tea infusion ¾ cup orange juice 1/3 cup lemon juice 1 pint ginger ale 1 pint Apollinaris Few slices orange Pour tea over sugar, and as soon as sugar is dissolved add fruit juices. Strain into punch-bowl over a large piece of ice, and just before serving add ale, Apollinaris, and slices of orange. For tea infusion use two teaspoons tea and one and one-fourth cups boiling water. 9 oranges 6 lemons

For the Modern Kitchen

A tea-based punch of the sort Fannie Farmer's kitchen turned out for receptions and church suppers. Almost nothing here needs translating except the mineral water and one puzzling line at the end.

A Little History

Tea punch belongs to the temperance side of the American punch tradition: by the 1890s a great many church socials, women's club meetings and afternoon receptions wanted something ceremonial to ladle out of a bowl without spirits in it, and strong tea supplied the astringency and body that wine or rum would otherwise have given. Fannie Merritt Farmer's book carries several numbered fruit punches so a hostess could pick according to what was in the house, and this one leans on two commercial products that signal the period precisely: bottled ginger ale, then still thought of as a slightly medicinal beverage, and Apollinaris water, the German spring water advertised for decades in America as the "Queen of Table Waters" and stocked by any grocer with pretensions. Naming a specific imported mineral water in a cookbook aimed at Boston households says a good deal about who was expected to be reading it.

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