The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Maple Sugar Candy

1 lb. soft maple sugar ¼ cup thin cream 1/4 cup boiling water 2 cup English walnut or pecan meat, cut in pieces Break sugar in pieces; put into a saucepan with cream and water. Bring to boiling-point, and boil until a soft ball Is formed when tried in cold water. Remove from fire, beat until creamy, add nut meat, and pour into a buttered tin. Cool slightly, and mark in squares. 2 cups sugar 1/2 cup milk 1/4 cup molasses 1/4 cup butter

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward maple fudge that depends entirely on hitting the soft-ball stage and then beating it at the right moment. A candy thermometer removes all the guesswork the original leaves in.

A Little History

Maple sugar was the cheap sweetener of the northern countryside long before it became the luxury it is now: farms in Vermont, New Hampshire, upstate New York and Quebec boiled sap down to hard cakes that kept through the year, and cane sugar was the thing you bought. Fannie Farmer's confectionery chapter reflects the moment when that balance was tipping. By 1896 refined cane sugar was cheap and uniform, so maple appears here not as a household staple but as a flavor, one of a run of quickly boiled fudges and creams that a schoolgirl or a housewife could make in an afternoon without a copper kettle. The instruction to test in cold water rather than read a thermometer is period-typical; candy thermometers existed but were not yet standard household equipment, and cooks learned the stages by feel.

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