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Cheese and Olive Canapes and Canapes Lorenzo
MARMALADES, JAM, AND JELLIES, WITH PARAFFINE TO MELT FOR COVERING, PAPER CUT FOR COVERS, GUMMED LABELS, AND LIBRARY PASTE. - Pages 574 to 577. eggs. Cover canapés by quarters with egg, alternating yolks and whites. Divide yolks from whites with anchovies split in two lengthwise, and pipe around a border of Anchovy Butter, using a pastry bag and tube.
Cheese and Olive Canapés Cut stale bread in one-fourth inch slices. Shape with a small oblong cutter with rounded corners. Cream butter, add an equal quantity of soft cheese, and work until smooth; then season with salt. Spread on bread and garnish with a one-fourth inch border of finely chopped olives and a piece of red or green pepper cut in fancy shape, in centre of each. To be served in place of sandwiches on a plate covered with a doiley.
Canapés Lorenzo Toast slices of bread cut in shape of horseshoes. Cream two tablespoons butter, and add one teaspoon white of egg. Spread slices of bread, rounding with Crab Mixture, cover with creamed butter, sprinkle with cheese, and brown in the Serve on a napkin, ends towards centre of dish, and oven. garnish with parsley.
Crab Mixture. Finely chop crab meat, season with salt, cayenne, and a few drops of lemon juice, then moisten with Thick White Sauce. Lobster meat may be used in place of crab meat.
Algonquin Canapés Fry one-half tablespoon finely chopped onion, three tablespoons butter, and one-third cup chopped mushroom caps five minutes. Add two tablespoons flour, and two-thirds cup cream. Cook until mixture thickens, then add one cup finnan haddie (soaked in lukewarm water to cover forty-five minutes, then separated into flakes), two tablespoons grated cheese, and yolks two eggs slightly beaten. Season with salt and cayenne and pile on circular pieces of toasted bread. Sprinkle with grated cheese, then with buttered, soft bread crumbs, and bake until crumbs are browned Serve at once.
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Four canapé recipes run together here, plus a stray line of index text from the preserving chapter that the scanner picked up. Everything from "Cheese and Olive Canapés" onward is workable; the opening fragment about paraffine and gummed labels belongs to another page, and the first surviving instruction ("Cover canapés by quarters with egg") is the tail of an anchovy-and-egg canapé whose beginning is missing.
- Oven heatNeither browning step gives a temperature; the book says only to brown in the oven, and to bake until the crumbs are browned. A hot oven, somewhere around 400-425F, watched closely, will colour cheese and crumbs without overcooking fillings that are already cooked.
- Finnan haddieCold-smoked haddock, sold now as finnan haddock or smoked haddock fillet. Buy the undyed sort if you can find it. The 45-minute lukewarm soak is to draw out salt from heavily cured fish; modern smoked haddock is much less salty, so 15 minutes is plenty, and taste before adding any salt to the sauce.
- The hinge: the egg yolksIn the Algonquin mixture the two yolks go into a hot cream sauce. Pull the pan off the heat, stir a spoonful of the hot sauce into the beaten yolks first, then return them. Added straight to a simmering sauce they curdle, and the filling turns grainy under the crumbs.
- Thick White SauceThe book's thick white sauce carries substantially more butter and flour to the cup of milk than a pouring sauce; check the book's own white sauce table for the exact proportions of that grade. It needs to be stiff to hold chopped crab in a mound on toast.
- "Soft cheese"Not brie. She means a fresh, mild, spreadable cheese of the cream-cheese or neufchâtel type. Modern block cream cheese, beaten equal by volume with softened butter, gives the intended texture.
- Bread and shapesQuarter-inch slices from a firm white sandwich loaf, day old so the cutter gives a clean edge. Horseshoes and rounded oblongs are period presentation; plain rounds or squares behave the same in the oven.
- YieldThe recipe gives no yield. A cup of flaked fish bound in about two-thirds of a cup of sauce will cover a modest platter of small rounds. The crab mixture is scaled to whatever crab you have.
- DoileyA doily: a small ornamental paper or linen mat laid on the serving plate, used to dress the dish and to absorb grease.
Canapés arrived in American entertaining from French restaurant service in the late nineteenth century — small hot savouries on shaped toast, meant to open a meal or to stand in for sandwiches at a reception. The names here read like a hotel menu, which is very likely where they came from: dishes titled after places and people (Lorenzo, Algonquin) were the common currency of American hotel and club kitchens of the period, and the Algonquin Hotel and the Algonquin tribal name were both in circulation as fashionable labels. The finnan haddie fits the New England setting, though smoked haddock was widely sold beyond it. It came into Boston in quantity from the Scottish trade and from Nova Scotia, creamed, flaked into sauces, and piled on toast as here.