The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

HomePork › Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce

Roast Ham with Champagne Sauce

Place a whole baked ham in the oven fifteen minutes before serving time, that outside fat may be heated. Remove to a hot platter, garnish bone end with a paper ruffle, and serve with Champagne Sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

This is a serving instruction rather than a cooking method: the ham has already been baked, and the fifteen minutes in the oven is only to warm and gloss the fat. What matters is what you do before and after.

A Little History

Fannie Merritt Farmer's book belongs to a moment when American middle-class households were borrowing the vocabulary of French restaurant cookery, and a wine-finished sauce poured over a homely cured ham is exactly that borrowing in miniature: the ham is New England Sunday dinner, the sauce is the hotel dining room. Cured whole hams are often said to have been among the few large joints a household could keep for some time without refrigeration, and they were baked in advance and, by tradition, appeared repeatedly at the table, which may be why the instruction here is about reheating and presentation rather than cooking. The paper ruffle, the hot platter and the bone end turned toward the carver are period stage directions; a bone-in ham was meant to be seen whole before it was cut, and cookery books of the 1890s give considerable attention to how a dish arrived at the table.

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