The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Snowballs

1/2 cup butter 1 cup sugar 2¼ cups flour 3½ teaspoons baking powder Whites 4 eggs Cream the butter, add sugar gradually, milk, and flour mixed and sifted with baking powder; then add the whites of eggs beaten stiff. Steam thirty-five minutes in buttered cups; serve with preserved fruit, quince marmalade, or strawberry sauce.

For the Modern Kitchen

The text as printed here has been mangled in transcription: the butter and sugar quantities are missing from the top of the list, the baking powder figure is garbled, and the last four lines (butter, molasses, milk, egg) belong to a different pudding altogether. What survives is a steamed white cake, and it is workable if you treat the list with suspicion.

A Little History

Snowballs of this kind belong to the long English tradition of the steamed pudding, carried into American cookery. The name is most likely a reference to the appearance rather than the method: whites only, no yolks, no spice and no browning crust, so the turned-out pudding comes to the table white and round. Steaming was practical in a period when a coal range gave uneven oven heat but a kettle on the top could be trusted, and the hot pudding course was still expected at the end of a family dinner. The contribution of cooks like Fannie Farmer to dishes like this was less invention than measurement; the insistence on the level cup and level spoon is exactly what makes a garbled ingredient list like this one so conspicuous.

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