The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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Sugared Popped Corn

2 quarts popped corn 2 tablespoons butter 2 cups brown sugar 1/2 cup water Put butter in saucepan, and when melted add sugar and water. Bring to boiling-point, and let boil sixteen minutes. Pour over corn, and stir until every kernel is well coated with sugar. 5 quarts popped corn 2 cups sugar 1½ cups water

For the Modern Kitchen

A two-ingredient caramel poured over popped corn, given in Fannie Farmer's usual telegraphic style. The trailing line of quantities is a second, plainer version of the same recipe using white sugar and no butter.

A Little History

Sugared popped corn sits in the Confections chapter alongside fondant, molasses candy and salted nuts — all things a household made at home because commercial confectionery was expensive and of uncertain quality. Popcorn was cheap, American and abundant, and coating it in boiled sugar was one way of turning a bulk grain into something festive. The version with butter resembles what would later be sold as caramel corn, though the commercial product usually adds molasses or corn syrup to keep the coating from crystallizing. Farmer's book, first published in 1896, was notable for insisting on level measurements, which is why the quantities here are exact while the cooking instruction is still the older kind — a fixed number of minutes rather than a temperature, since candy thermometers were not yet standard equipment in a home kitchen.

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