The Boston Cooking-School Cook Book

The book that taught America to measure. Fannie Farmer's 1896 classic replaced the pinch, the lump and the teacup of the old receipts with the level cup and the level spoon — and then filled eight hundred pages with what to do next.

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White Nut Cake

1/2 cup milk ½ teaspoon cream of tartar 2½ cups flour 3 teaspoons baking powder 1 cup walnut meat cut in pieces 3/4 cup butter 1½ cups sugar Whites 8 eggs Follow recipe for mixing butter cakes. This mixture makes two loaves. 1/4 cup butter ½ cup sugar

For the Modern Kitchen

A standard creamed butter cake enriched with walnuts and lightened with egg whites only. The ingredient list as printed is muddled — it carries two leaveners and a stray pair of measurements at the end — so read the notes before you start.

A Little History

White cakes — those built on egg whites alone, with the yolks saved for custards, curds or gold cake — were a fixture of American baking from the mid-nineteenth century onward, when reliable chemical leavening and cheap refined sugar made a pale, fine-grained crumb an achievable domestic goal rather than a confectioner's trick. The book teaches cake by method rather than by individual recipe, which is why this one simply says to follow the directions for mixing butter cakes: the reader was expected to have learned creaming, alternating wet and dry, and folding in whites once, then apply them across dozens of variations. Adding a cup of nuts was a common way of turning a plain white loaf into something for company; hickory nuts and black walnuts appear in the same role in regional books of the period.

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