Bouillon
Four pounds of beef, one knuckle of veal, one carrot, two small turnips, a sprig of celery, one very small red pepper pod, two small onions, salt and six quarts of water; boil six hours, and strain through a sieve. Let stand over night. Serve hot.
A plain long-simmered beef and veal stock, meant to be clarified by the fat cap that forms overnight and served as a clear broth. Two things in the original need updating: the vessel size and the overnight rest.
- Pot sizeSix quarts of water plus four pounds of beef and a veal knuckle needs a 10- to 12-quart stockpot. Anything smaller will boil over or leave the bones uncovered as it reduces.
- Simmer, do not boilThis is the hinge. A rolling boil emulsifies fat and drives protein scum back into the liquid, and no amount of straining will make it clear again. Hold it at a bare shiver, with the surface barely trembling, for the full six hours, and skim the grey foam off in the first half hour.
- Knuckle of vealThe joint end of the leg, sawn across, sold as veal knuckle or veal shank bone. It is there for gelatin, not flavour, and a butcher will usually cut it on request. Beef marrow bones are the nearest substitute if veal is unavailable.
- "A sprig of celery"One rib with its leaves, not a sprig in the herb sense. The leaves are strongly flavoured, so include them.
- The red pepper podOne small dried hot pepper, whole. It is meant to give warmth in the background; leave it whole and remove it with the vegetables so it does not dominate.
- The overnight restThe point is to let the fat set into a removable disc, not to leave the pot on the stove. Strain, then cool the broth quickly in a shallow pan or an ice bath and refrigerate it; six quarts left at room temperature overnight sits in the range where bacteria multiply for hours.
- SaltAdd only a pinch during the simmer. The liquid reduces considerably over six hours, and seasoning is best judged when the bouillon is reheated to serve.
- Yield and servingExpect perhaps three to four quarts after six hours, depending on how hard it simmers, which is twelve to sixteen cups. Serve in cups or shallow bowls, hot and unadorned. The boiled beef will have given up much of its flavour to the broth; it can be minced for hash or croquettes.
Bouillon in an American book of this vintage means a clear, lightly seasoned beef broth drunk from a cup, distinct from the richer consommé, which was clarified with egg white. It was a fixture of the late-Victorian and Edwardian table as a first course, an invalid food, and a between-courses restorative at receptions and balls, where a cup of hot bouillon was handed round in the small hours. The word is simply the French for a boiled liquid, from bouillir, to boil.