The Bride's Cook Book

A wedding present from the advertisers, San Francisco, c.1918 — a young wife's whole cookery course, paid for by the Blue Bird washer, the Portland Studio and Ghirardelli's chocolate.

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Frozen Apricots

1 Quart Can Apricots Water 2 Cups Corn Syrup To the syrup from the apricots add the corn syrup and sufficient water to make 1 quart. Since the sweetness of the apricots varies, more or less corn syrup may be needed. Put the apricots through a strainer, mix the pulp thoroughly with the liquid and freeze the mixture.

For the Modern Kitchen

A water ice built entirely from a can of fruit and its own syrup — no dairy, no eggs, no cooking. The proportions matter more than they look, because sugar concentration is what keeps a fruit ice scoopable rather than solid.

A Little History

Fruit ices made from canned fruit belong to a specific moment in American home cooking, when reliable commercial canning had put out-of-season apricots, peaches and pineapple within reach of an ordinary household year-round, and when mechanical ice-cream freezers had become widely available. That combination is exactly why a recipe like this sits in a bride's cookbook: it asks for no cooking, no custard, no judgement about eggs, and produces a company dessert from a pantry shelf. The reliance on corn syrup rather than sugar is consistent with the heavy promotion of refined corn syrup as a household sweetener in the first decades of the twentieth century, and it happens to be sound technique its glucose and dextrins interfere with crystal growth, which is the same reason confectioners use it.

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