Devonshire Cheesecakes

A carrot-based "cheesecake" in the older English sense: a small pastry case with a sweet filling, no cheese involved. The filling is stiff and fruit-heavy, so the main things to get right are the fineness of the carrot purée and a moderate oven.

• Sieve the carrot properlyThe texture of the finished tart depends entirely on this step. Boil the carrot until it collapses, drain it very well, then press it through a fine sieve or ricer so no fibrous strands remain; a food processor leaves it too wet and stringy.
• Patty-pansThese are shallow tartlet tins, roughly 2 to 2"" inches across. A 12-hole shallow bun tin lined with shortcrust is the closest modern equivalent.
• Oven and timeNo temperature is given, as was normal. Bake at 350–375F until the pastry is set and coloured at the edges and the filling is firm to the touch, about 20 to 25 minutes for tartlets of this size.
• Weights in modern termsHalf a pound of currants is about 1" cups; a quarter pound of sugar is a generous half cup. The proportions are unusual — the currants outweigh any other single ingredient, so expect a dense, chewy fruit filling rather than a custard.
• No fat in the fillingUnlike richer 'cheesecakes' of the same period, this one has none. A tablespoon of softened butter beaten in will loosen the mixture and keep it from drying, if you want a richer result, though it departs from the original.
• The teaspoon of milkThe liquid is there only to slacken the flour. If the mixture will not drop from the spoon, add milk a teaspoon at a time until it does.
• YieldEnough filling for about 12 shallow tartlets. They keep two or three days in a tin and are better warm than hot.