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Fillet of Beef Stewed
371. Take the inside of a sirloin of beef, stuffed or plain, rolled up with the fat in the centre. Put a little good stock into the stewpan with a few slices of lean ham, and then the meat, which must be covered with carrots and celery cut in dice, or the former in shapes, a few small onions, savoury herbs, and a little chopped pickle; flavour with salt, pepper, mace, and a little ketchup, simmer till tender, and brown the beef before the fire; skim and season the sauce, remove the herbs, and serve the whole hot.
A braise of whole beef tenderloin in a bed of diced vegetables and ham, finished by browning at the fire. The original assumes a butcher will bone out the sirloin for you and an open hearth for the final colour.
- The cut"The inside of a sirloin" is the whole tenderloin (fillet) lifted from beneath the sirloin bone. Ask for a 2-3 lb centre-cut piece, trimmed. "Rolled up with the fat in the centre" most likely means opening the fillet out, laying fat or suet along the middle, and tying it back into a cylinder, though the original does not spell out the method.
- StewpanA stewpan here is a lidded flameproof pot, not a baking dish. Use a heavy casserole or braiser just large enough to hold the rolled fillet with the vegetables banked over it.
- Stock quantity"A little good stock" is not specified. For a braise of this kind an inch of liquid in the pan is enough - the vegetables and meat release more - and it should never cover the beef.
- KetchupIn a British book of this date ketchup means mushroom or walnut ketchup, a thin dark savoury liquid, not sweetened tomato sauce. Mushroom ketchup is still sold; a spoonful of Worcestershire sauce is the nearest common substitute.
- Chopped pickleThis means mixed pickled vegetables or gherkins in a spiced vinegar, chopped fine. Its job is acid and sharpness against the fat, so a tablespoon is plenty.
- MaceBlade mace, the outer covering of nutmeg, was a standard savoury spice then. Ground mace works; use a scant quarter-teaspoon, or a quarter of a grated nutmeg.
- Simmer till tenderFillet is already tender and takes badly to long braising. Keep the liquid at a bare shiver, not a boil; if you want it pink, pull the meat at around 130-135F internal, which for a 3 lb roll may take something like 40-50 minutes. This is a departure from the original, which simply says to simmer till tender. The vegetables can be given a head start in the pan so they finish with it.
- Browning before the fireThis is the finishing step, done at an open hearth. Lift the beef out, dry the surface, and colour it under a hot broiler or in a 450F oven for a few minutes while you skim and reduce the sauce.
- YieldA 2-3 lb rolled fillet with its vegetables serves six to eight. Remove the strings before carving into thick slices and spoon the skimmed sauce and dice over.