Solid Raspberry Cream

A Victorian moulded cream, set with isinglass and coloured and sweetened entirely by raspberry preserve. The whole success of it is in dissolving the setting agent fully before it meets the cold cream.

• Isinglass to gelatineIsinglass is dried sturgeon swim bladder, sold now mainly as a brewing fining agent and much less consistent than modern gelatine. For two pints of liquid use about 1/2 oz (14 g, roughly two envelopes) of powdered gelatine, or the sheet equivalent, around six to eight leaves depending on grade; the larger period weight probably reflects isinglass's weaker and more variable setting power.
• Dissolving it properlySoften the gelatine in a little cold milk, then warm the pint of milk to about 120F and stir until no grains remain. Do not boil it, and do not add the cold cream until the milk is smooth and clear, or the set will be patchy.
• Not of tinRaspberry is acidic, and acid on a bare tin (or unlined copper) surface can taint the cream and dull its colour, which is the likely reason for the instruction. Use glass, glazed ceramic, stainless steel or silicone.
• New milk"New milk" means fresh whole milk, unskimmed and not soured. Whole milk with the pint of cream gives roughly the fat content intended; skimmed milk gives a leaner, firmer, less creamy set.
• SweetnessThere is no sugar in the recipe, so all of it comes from the preserve, and the original gauges the quantity by colour rather than sweetness. A cupful of raspberry jam or jelly, warmed to loosen, is a reasonable starting point; taste before moulding, since it will read less sweet once cold.
• StrainingThe first straining catches undissolved isinglass; the second, after the preserve goes in, will hold back raspberry seeds if jam rather than jelly is used. A fine sieve is enough for the first, pressed through with a spoon for the second.
• Setting and turning outFour to six hours in the refrigerator, or overnight for a large mould. Dip the mould briefly in warm water and invert onto a wetted plate.
• YieldThe milk and cream come to two pints (a quart) before the preserve is added, so allow a mould a little larger than a quart; serves six to eight.