Swiss Pudding

A layered apple charlotte-style pudding with no quantities given at all, which is the point: it is built by eye in whatever dish you have. The one thing to get right is the fruit-to-crumb ratio, since crumbs left dry will stay dry.

• Oven temperatureNo oven setting is given; the recipe says only "bake an hour". A moderate oven, around 350F/180C, suits the timing for apples sliced about 1/4 inch thick; check that a knife passes through the middle without resistance.
• Moist sugar"Moist sugar" is unrefined soft brown sugar, still damp from the molasses. Light brown sugar is the closest modern equivalent; caster or granulated will work but gives a thinner, less caramelised result.
• Pie-dishA Victorian pie-dish is typically an oval or round earthenware baker with sloping sides, and they were made in a range of sizes. A 9-inch pie plate or a 1-quart baking dish serves; in a much deeper dish the centre may need longer than the hour given.
• The crumbsUse fresh soft crumbs from a day-old loaf, not dried or packaged crumbs, which absorb too much butter and set hard. Coarse crumbs from torn bread give a better texture than anything blitzed to powder.
• Butter quantityNone is specified. For a 1-quart dish, 3 to 4 oz melted butter poured slowly over the top layer, so it soaks down rather than pooling, is about right.
• ApplesA cooking apple that collapses in baking is the likely intention, and such apples need more sugar than a modern eating apple. With a firm variety such as Granny Smith or Braeburn the slices hold their shape and you can reduce the sugar.
• CoveringAn hour uncovered will brown the top crumb layer well before the fruit is done. Cover loosely with foil for the first 40 minutes, then uncover to crisp.
• YieldA 1-quart dish serves four to six, with cream or a plain custard.