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To Fry Palates
379. Boil them till half done, split them in halves, spread some forcemeat, and roll up the halves; make a batter of yolk of eggs, flour, a little butter, and a few spoonsful of white wine, the batter must be added by degrees, and should be as thick as good cream; fry them a light brown, and serve on a napkin, or with a good gravy, or they may be dipped simply in egg and crumbs.
This is an ox-palate recipe, and the whole thing hinges on work the original assumes you already know: palates must be boiled long enough to slip their tough outer skin before anything else happens. Everything after that is straightforward frying.
- What "palates" areOx (beef) palates, the fleshy roof of the mouth. They are not a supermarket item; ask a halal, Chinese or Mexican butcher, or a wholesale offal supplier. Allow one palate per two people as a first course.
- The skinning step, which the recipe omitsPalates carry a horny grey membrane that never softens. Simmer them until the skin can be rubbed or peeled away while still hot, then return them to the pot. Cold palates will not give up their skin.
- "Till half done"Fully tender palate takes roughly three to four hours at a bare simmer. Half done here means something like an hour and a half to two: yielding enough to split and roll, still firm enough to hold its shape. They finish cooking in the fryer only superficially, so do not undershoot.
- ForcemeatIn this period that means a bound stuffing of minced veal or pork with suet, breadcrumbs, egg, lemon zest, mace and herbs. Any well-seasoned sausage meat with a spoonful of breadcrumb works. Spread it thinly, roll, and secure each roll with a cocktail stick before battering.
- The batterYolks, flour, butter and white wine, loosened by degrees to the thickness the recipe specifies, 'good cream'. Adding the liquid gradually is what keeps it lump-free; some cooks find a rested batter clings better than a freshly whisked one.
- FryingDeep fat at 350-360F gives the light brown the recipe asks for. Hotter and the batter colours before the forcemeat is cooked through, which matters if you have used raw pork or veal.
- "Serve on a napkin"A folded linen cloth on the dish to absorb frying fat, a common presentation for deep-fried dishes in period cookery. A rack and warm plates do the same job.
- The alternative coatingEgg and crumbs is the simpler route and behaves better if the rolls are damp from the pot. Pat them thoroughly dry either way, or batter and crumb both slide off in the fat.