The Butterick Cook Book

The pattern company's cookbook, 1911 — thirty-two chapters from appetizers to the fireless cooker.

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Egg Plant, Fried

Some two hours before dinner-time peel the plant and slice it quite thin, sprinkle each slice with salt, lay slice upon slice and place a plate upon the top. The salt will draw out the disagreeably bitter flavor. Half an hour before serving wipe each slice dry, dip in beaten egg, then in cracker dust or bread crumbs, and fry each in plenty of hot fat. Lay a piece of soft brown wrapping paper in a colander; and upon it place the slices as they come crisp and brown from the frying-pan, keeping the whole hot. The paper will absorb the oil left by the frying. Serve on a hot platter, the slices overlapping each other.

For the Modern Kitchen

A straightforward salt-and-fry method that still works, with two details worth updating: the draining paper and the thickness of the slices.

A Little History

Eggplant was a latecomer to American tables — long grown as an ornamental curiosity before it was widely eaten, and nineteenth-century cookbooks often felt obliged to explain what to do with it at all. Frying it in egg and crumbs was a common treatment in English-language books of the period, and the insistence on salting reflects older varieties that really were bitter. The detail about brown wrapping paper in a colander is a good marker of the period: before commercial paper towels, cooks drained fried food on whatever absorbent paper the household had on hand, and butcher's or grocer's wrapping was an obvious candidate. The Butterick book, published by a pattern company for a broad domestic readership around the turn of the century, is exactly the sort of volume that would spell out such household economies alongside the cooking.

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